Archives for category: Books

On Tuesday May 26 we woke up in our room at the Inns of Aurora. This would likely be the penultimate day of our rest and relaxation this time around – the one day where we “sat around and did nothing.” We did, however, do something.

I started the day with a hike through the woods and fields above Aurora while mostly conversing with my father on the telephone. As it had rained several days prior it was pretty muddy, but it was a beautiful, still late-spring morning along Cayuga Lake.

The walk took me past a few of the Inn’s many properties including an old renovated farmhouse and the spa. After my walk we were scheduled to go on a coffee and croissants cruise on the lake but the boat captain called in sick. Not sure, but it’s possible he was just out too late the night before. Anyway, this activity was postponed until the next day.

The Inn recently changed their breakfast service. Instead of having breakfast available in the main restaurant they now have breakfast as counter-serve, coffee shop style, in the general store. And yes, they now have a general store that serves as basically a takeout place as well as a small gift shop. In addition they serve coffee, tea, juice, and breakfast snacks (artisanal breakfast bars) in each building within The Inn. Not sure if this is a decent substitute for those who want a hearty breakfast but likely it is what they have done to reliably provide breakfast in a place and time where it may be hard to entice restaurant workers for a sporadic meal service.

After breakfast we returned to the spa to enjoy their outdoor thermal suite. This was truly a blessing – the day was beautiful for lounging outdoors. We intermittently dipped into three different hot pools (99 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit) and I intermittently dipped into one cold pool (about 54 degrees Fahrenheit). It took me more than 90 minutes of plunging, sitting and reading, and relaxing to fully immerse myself in the cold. It was invigorating.

The hydro pools at the spa are not the best value. They come complimentary with spa services, but as we had our spa service the day before they charged us for a 90 minute pass instead.

This “forced downtime” actually forced us to have some downtime. We spent much of the afternoon reading on the porch. I was able to finish a few chapters of The Three Body Problem for the first time in a couple of months. And then for more “forced downtime” we took a ride to Long Point Winery.

There were three British cars at Long Point including mine (not shown above). This Austin Healy is pretty amazing and very well kept.

Long Point actually purchases most of their grapes from what I can tell, and most of their grapes are purchased from out of state. Usually I’m horrified by this – and in this case to a degree I am still horrified a little. However, they do a decent job especially with the Cabernet Franc they grow – it has a great finish and decants well. Their Zinfandel (California grapes) is also well made and a lot deeper expression than many California Zins. For this reason I decided they’re actually a mediocre vineyard with some amazing winemakers – and in a beautiful setting as well.

After the winery adventure, The Boss piloted The Beast to the Village of Skaneateles where we would meet my uncle and significant other for dinner.

Skaneateles sits on the north end of Skaneateles Lake which is maintained in a pristine fashion to serve as the water supply for the City of Syracuse. The only reason I have really spent any time in Skaneateles is because my mother, and thus my uncle, grew up there. My uncle moved there before he can remember (I believe he was less than a year old) with my mother’s family when my grandfather’s company moved from New Jersey. Now, Skaneateles is a combination between upscale bedroom community for Syracuse and resort community surrounded by farmland.

We had dinner at a pizza and Italian place in the village before heading back to the municipal parking lot.

Where we parked had a view of this house. My uncle said, “You know that’s the house where we grew up, right?” Yes, this is what my mother refers to as the State Street House.

As the light faded, The Boss piloted us safely back to Aurora, two lakes over, past farms and fields that remind me of growing up on a farm in that part of New York. And thus everything became complete.

Looking ahead – what the guide says about The Falkland Islands:

“Many ships call into the Falkland Islands on their way to or from Antarctica.  These stops usually turn out to be a pleasant surprise for those on board.  Located 477 km (296 miles) east of southern Argentina, the Falklands are a rare mix of wildlife hotspot and delightful inhabited outpost.  Comprising over 700 islands, the archipelago has a human population of around 4000, and a sea-bird population that dwarfs that.  For wildlife lovers the Falklands are a fantastic destination.  Unlike other subantarctic islands, they can be visited independently by scheduled flights.”

The archipelago is slightly larger than the area of Jamaica including water.  Theya re around 51 degrees south latitude, the equivalent to Southern Labrador, London, and Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula in the north.  They are, however, much colder and are constantly raked by strong winds.  There are no naturally recurring trees.  Temperature in the summer tends to be around 9 degrees Celsius / 48 degrees Fahrenheit and the sun shines more often than not.

The book talks about literally millions of petrels, albatrosses, penguins, gulls, and cormorants.  Black-browed albatrosses, rockhopper penguins, giant petrels, white-chinned petrels, Antarctic prions, Magellanic and blue-eyed cormorants, kelp geese, upland geese, crested ducks, flightless steamer ducks.  

There are mammals including Commerson’s and Peale’s dolphins, killer whales, Sei whales, elephant seals, South American fur seals, sea lions, etc.

We’re looking forward to it.  We have a Volunteer Point excursion planned.

We’re also reading up on our next stops in Puerto Madryn, Punta del Este, Montevideo, and finally Buenos Aires.  

I’ve been using Peter Carey & Craig Franklin’s Antarctica Cruising Guide for information on Antarctica as well as the surrounding islands including the Falklands; this includes the quote above.

For ideas on what to do in ports as well as Santiago and Buenos Aires, I’ve been using the latest version of Lonely Planet South America. This helped me give our private guide in Santiago a list of neighborhoods and sites to visit as well as for me to identify what was good for us to see on our own. I’m also using it for a similar guide in Buenos Aires. And it helped me with the museum in Ushuaia and to find Isabel Cocina al Disco in Ushuaia.

Good morning everybody!  We fly tomorrow.  End result – our fridge is empty, teens have gone off to their mother’s for a few weeks, and we’ve packed up.  Our dog is ready to be dropped off at her friend’s house tomorrow morning where they’ll have a great time for the next month.

Yesterday’s pre-travel opportunities included lining up the neighbors to take our trash out later this week and bring the bins back in; coordinating with the plant caretakers; and most importantly polishing my shoes while watching football!

Also, I finished my third “Travel reading” book, Terra Incognita: Travels in Antarctica by Sara Wheeler.  It’s going to Antarctica with me so I can hand it off to my mother while will be on the same cruise.

Terra Incognita

Sara Wheeler breaks Terra Incognita into roughly three different parts.  Her first part is where she flys from New Zealand to McMurdo, the American base on Ross Island by the Ross shelf and spends at least a couple of months at McMurdo as well as flying, sledging, helicoptering, and otherwise traveling out to various research camps elsewhere on the ice including a visit to the West Antarctic Ice Sheet as well as the South Pole research station.  She spends a lot of time talking about the early explorers of Antarctica especially the British (spoiler alert – Sara is British).  She isn’t exactly easy on the British; for instance, she poked fun at their attitude that “of course a Brit would reach the pole first.”  Much of what she discusses about life on the ice especially life at the Pole was shared with me by a friend of mine who spent ten months wintering at the South Pole in 2004 and 2005.

After her stay at McMurdo in the first part of the book, she transfers to the British bases the largest of which is Rothera; her experience there is entirely different.  Although the book is set in the 1990s which seems like the modern era to me, and only ten years before my friend was at the pole, her experiences on South America, especially at Rothera, seem as if they were from another era.  During this time she was much happier at research camps away from the stations rather than at the station itself.  Also, in order to travel to Rothera, on the Antarctic Peninsula, she literally had to fly throughNew Zealand and Los Angeles and then home to London to return via Royal Air Force transport to the Falkland Islands and then a Dash-7 to Rothera…. It certainly was thelong way round.

For her final stay, she felt called to return –  towards the end of the Antarctic winter, and in case anybody is interested in reading it, I won’t spoil it, but it was her happiest time on Antarctica it seems.

One thing she reminds the reader, and this is relevant for Antarctic cruisers – The Antarctic Peninsula is the banana belt.  Especially in the summer it is warmer than Ross Island by 20 degrees and warmer than the South Pole by even more.  Year round the peninsula is close to the temperature of the water around it.  Areas that are surrounded by ice or land are much, much colder.  It’s also the wettest part of the continent.

Travels in a Thin Country

Anyway, if you read this, thanks for reading along.  If you’re interested in the science and experience of being in Antarctica as well as the history, Terra Incognita is a great read.  I also read Travels in a Thin Land where Sara Wheeler speaks of her experiences traveling the length of Chile – top to bottom – for the better part of a year, and I read Endurance by Alfred Lansing about Shackleton’s expedition.  Hopefully if all goes well we will come close to Shackleton’s landing spot on Elephant Island.

A couple of suspicious looking novels

Finally, I have an Antarctic Cruise Guide for understanding the geography around the peninsula as well as the wildlife, and I have a Lonely Planet South America guide forideas on how to spend time in Santiago as well as port days where we don’t haveexcursions planned.  I wouldn’t recommend the Lonely Planet book – it’s too heavy and takes up the weight of a couple of pairs of jeans in your checked baggage!  I’ve included a gratis photo of “Time Management for Mortals” for those who worry about getting everything done before traveling…

Today I wrap things up at the office and tomorrow is the day we travel.  I may have felt comfortable waiting until Wednesday to travel but I figured we would want to get to know Santiago a little before getting on a ship and this gives two whole days for things to go wrong rather than one.

Happy Monday to all who celebrate!