Looking ahead – what the guide says about The Falkland Islands:
“Many ships call into the Falkland Islands on their way to or from Antarctica. These stops usually turn out to be a pleasant surprise for those on board. Located 477 km (296 miles) east of southern Argentina, the Falklands are a rare mix of wildlife hotspot and delightful inhabited outpost. Comprising over 700 islands, the archipelago has a human population of around 4000, and a sea-bird population that dwarfs that. For wildlife lovers the Falklands are a fantastic destination. Unlike other subantarctic islands, they can be visited independently by scheduled flights.”
The archipelago is slightly larger than the area of Jamaica including water. Theya re around 51 degrees south latitude, the equivalent to Southern Labrador, London, and Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula in the north. They are, however, much colder and are constantly raked by strong winds. There are no naturally recurring trees. Temperature in the summer tends to be around 9 degrees Celsius / 48 degrees Fahrenheit and the sun shines more often than not.
The book talks about literally millions of petrels, albatrosses, penguins, gulls, and cormorants. Black-browed albatrosses, rockhopper penguins, giant petrels, white-chinned petrels, Antarctic prions, Magellanic and blue-eyed cormorants, kelp geese, upland geese, crested ducks, flightless steamer ducks.
There are mammals including Commerson’s and Peale’s dolphins, killer whales, Sei whales, elephant seals, South American fur seals, sea lions, etc.
We’re looking forward to it. We have a Volunteer Point excursion planned.
We’re also reading up on our next stops in Puerto Madryn, Punta del Este, Montevideo, and finally Buenos Aires.
I’ve been using Peter Carey & Craig Franklin’s Antarctica Cruising Guide for information on Antarctica as well as the surrounding islands including the Falklands; this includes the quote above.
For ideas on what to do in ports as well as Santiago and Buenos Aires, I’ve been using the latest version of Lonely Planet South America. This helped me give our private guide in Santiago a list of neighborhoods and sites to visit as well as for me to identify what was good for us to see on our own. I’m also using it for a similar guide in Buenos Aires. And it helped me with the museum in Ushuaia and to find Isabel Cocina al Disco in Ushuaia.
Okay, so I’m catching up on my writing as today is our final sea day until our Antarctic adventure begins. I went to two lectures on polar ice today and a third discussion led by the captain on our planned route once we reach Palmer Peninsula early tomorrow morning. Basically he warns us “if you’re living life to its fullest you’re going to be busy.”
Morning view, Friday January 16, 2025
Our mornings are predictably beginning fairly early here and I’m finally settling into a routine where I’m able to fall asleep and take a nap if I’m trying to live life to a fullest. Unfortunately, my Oura ring which I’m using to track my stress levels, heart rate, readiness, and sleep doesn’t seem to be able to tell when I’m taking a nap on a ship. I know it can tell how much sleep I am taking at night but it doesn’t see when I reach the same level of stillness I normally do for a nap at home – because obviously the ship is moving.
It hasn’t tracked a nap since Santiago.
Anyway, the first thing I tend to do in the morning is look outside off the stern of the ship. If it isn’t raining I hop out there and snap a photo. Beautiful, isn’t it? Then I sit at my desk here and write a little and sip coffee.
The further south we were going in the waterways of Chile the more ice we saw and the closer it came to sea level.
On Friday we went down to Pinnacle Grill for breakfast.
Pinnacle Grill breakfast
The Pinnacle Grill menu is obviously more substantial than the MDR menu. On this particular day I had the aloo masala (potato curry I think) and egg burjhi (eggs with peppers and spices I think). It was served with a dosa (lentil crepe), chapati bread, stewed lentils, and some chutneys.
For comparison, today I had the Pan Asian breakfast, you know because I have to try everything out.
Pan Asian breakfast
This was served alongside miso soup poured table side.
I’m really impressed with the variety of food served here. It’s even higher than what we saw traveling in Aqua Class on Celebrity. I know we have some perks due to Neptune Class, but this variety even extends to the room service.
Acai bowl
Anyway. We were cruising through the Beagle Passage past a series of five glaciers as we were dining that morning. I didn’t get the best photos, but that’s fine.
Many of my glacier photos were stained by the window
It was enjoyable to capture the moment and instead rest for a change.
Another day, another glacier
We were able to have a fairly active morning as we were not due to arrive in port until 1pm. This was actually delayed even though our original plan was 2pm; the captain had to wait for a couple of expedition ships to clear out before we had space on the pier.
I was able to go to the gym and have some treadmill time (something I’m hoping to repeat today) before going to the aquatherapy room and the thermal suite.
View from the thermal suiteThese loungers are heated
I mean, this was a civilized way to come into port.
Anyway, unlike Punta Arenas, in Ushuaia it just seems as if you suddenly arrive on a scene. The city itself likes tucked up against the mountains on a narrow tilted shelf pouring itself out at the harbor. It looks and feels as if you’ve suddenly been dumped in Queenstown, New Zealand, or Aspen, Colorado. And it’s priced the same.
Expedition ship in Ushuaia
And there are these pricy expedition ships docked there to remind you of your mortality.
As we didn’t really have any opportunity for souvenir acquisition in our previous three stops we decided to begin our time ashore by going shopping.
Typical construction in Ushuaia – both old and new
There are a lot of shops that sell chocolate alongside t-shirts. And a number of liquor shops as well with whisky that normally costs us $60 at home going for $200 here. Fortunately the local stuff is cheaper – I think a small bottle of Patagonian gin was about $15 USD. We actually found the most interesting gifts in a coffee shop / cafe called Espirito Fueguino Cafe & Gift Shop. I now have a heavy black hoodie with a mythological Patagonian creature on the back of it; it should come in handy the next few days.
There are three museums near the port (there may actually be more, but I searched and saw three). There are two Museo del Fin Del Mundos; we visited neither. We did, however, visit the museum at the Presido, the old prison, which actually consists of about five small museums in one.
A museum in the prison
This museum has about two wings dedicated to prison life – one to the history of the prison and the prisoners who were in residence, and then one completely devoid of furnishings so you could wander around and enjoy the silence.
There were also two gift shops. And an art gallery.
Maritime art
The only requirement for a piece of art to be in the art gallery is it had to be pretty good and it had to have something to do with water. Nonetheless, it was good art, mostly South American from what I could tell. Much of it resembled European art work, or even American art work from the time periods where they were created. For instance, there were a couple of Hopper-esque oil paintings I enjoyed. I could have enjoyed standing in silence in this wing for a while longer but I wasn’t alone. It was time to go eat.
And even though it was neither Patagonian lunch time nor dinner time, we found a nice meal at Isabel Cocina Al Disco.
I think we actually spent big city prices for our meal but it was worth it. One massive 750ml beer from Patagonia Brewing Company and two large but not massive beers from a local brewery that makes a red ale. We also shared the house specialty – seafood and potatoes cooked in a disc from a plow, or a de arado, or plough in British English. In modern times they actually use a cast iron pot with high edges similar to a paella pan.
And thus the term “al disco.”
It was so good. Mussels and baby octopus and shrimp and calamari stewed in white wine-tomato broth with nicely roasted and fried potatoes.
I tell you. I researched this place months ago. I had no idea what the cast iron pot was until now and didn’t connect it until I saw “plough” on the English language menu. And Isabel is easy to get to from the port – you walk off the ship, down the pier, out through the gates, and across the street and it’s to the right one block.
Back to the ship for us.
We did not join Seabourn Pursuit
It was a beautiful late afternoon stroll back to the ship where we whiled away the evening with our feet up on the loungers in the Crow’s Nest.
This is a great pier to walk out
Ushuaia is a great cruise port – my favorite so far. Logistically it’s easy. For excursions buses and vans come straight out to the ship. Visiting town is a half mile stroll along the pier.
Views of the town are stunning
Local beer here is great, by the way. Next up, two days at sea.
Holland America 22-Day South America and Antarctica
Today’s Dad Joke –
I don’t like people who don’t cover their nose and mouth when they sneeze. They make me sick.
It’s 10:30 in the morning and we’re due to depart for the airport in a few hours. I am busily finishing off the remaining Christmas cookies, chocolates, and other candies. That, and heading off a minor crises at the office.
Yesterday I came downstairs just as The Boss brought her main luggage up from the basement. It’s HUGE and I didn’t realize how huge. Two years ago I had purchased a piece at the off-price section at Macy’s which I thought was the maximum limit for European carriers for our Queen Victoria Atlantic Coast Adventure. Well, she went to the same place and bought something bigger. So I pulled out the measuring tape and even with our upgrade on American Airlines it turns out we’re both in the $200 zone for oversize baggage. End result we’re heading to the airport a little earlier than planned in case something unexpected happens and we need to return home or over to the mall to acquire smaller baggage.
Oversize Baggage
Nonetheless, we are excited. Meraz the Greyhound has been taken to her friend’s house. I made my last minute trip to the bank (walked halfway there once and turned around because I forgot my wallet and returned to get cash). Last night we checked in for our flights. This morning I filled out Chile’s SAG form online for agricultural declaration. In the interest of science I’m declaring my factory-packaged ginger chews and will report back here hopefully with them asking why I declared them; they aren’t plant or animal products!
I also received the good news yesterday that as my employment anniversary is this year I now have an extra week of leave each year!
Curious, who else tries to cram into one bag? I know there are people out there who would travel with carry-on only for a 22 day cruise. That’s not us. And this time we’re packing for three seasons.
I’ll share some of my own strategies for reducing clothing packed –
Get the laundry package. We plan to send out laundry for the first time either on embarkation day or the day following to beat the rush. We expect weather will transition from “summer” to “spring” by the first port day (third day of the cruise).
Use yoga shirts as under shirts and then work out in them the next day. Same with plain, dark t-shirts, for my chosen button down evening shirts they can be worn casually through the day but under a shirt to be dressier in the evening.
I have an LL Bean coat lined wind breaker which is rated for 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Liner removal means it gets used with a layer and a hoodie underneath at a handful of port stops, in addition to with liner and scarf and hat and three layers when doing the Antarctic drive-by. Will report back on success of this approach.
I’m packing three pairs of shoes. One, beach sandals to go to the pool and/or spa; two, dressy sneakers for most evenings; three, dressy boots which are good when polished for dressy nights (you may debate me on this). As the boots are wearing and may be retired this spring, I’ll wear them for Volunteer Point in the Falklands as they are still waterproof (again, you may debate me on this as well and point out the error of my ways).
I’m wearing my running shoes to the airport.
Prior to Polishing
I think we’re both now of the opinion that for most adventures we need to downsize our standard luggage a little. These monsters are going to be unwieldy if we need to move them anywhere further from curb to cab, and even though we’re both relatively fit it’s painful for us to carry them loaded down a flight of stairs.
Binoculars for wildlife and glacier viewing (2 pair)
Notepad and pen
Laundry bag
Small first-aid kit
Snacks for travel days
Personal entertainment (puzzle book, journal, cards)
Carcassonne game
Sewing kit
Shopping bag
Vitamin C drops
Antarctica-Specific Gear
High-quality waterproof gloves
Thermal socks
Waterproof pants
Packable down jacket
Sunglasses with UV protection (glare from ice and snow)
Sunscreen (for unexpected sun exposure)
Dry bag for camera/electronics during zodiac cruises
It’s a bit excessive. But still, gone from home for 25 days with a half a dozen different climates. This should be fun.
So today we ended up upgrading to a Neptune Suite. According to some they’re the smallest “true suite” on Holland America. We were in a Signature Suite. We started with a Signature Suite because we decided if we were going to be on a ship that long we wanted to be as comfortable as possible. Also, we didn’t go on a smaller expedition ship for a similar reason – because we wanted to be as comfortable as possible. I don’t feel as if I’m missing much by not having a more active expedition experience, although who knows I may eventually change my mind on that. Some day I think I’d enjoy expedition cruising around Greenland.
We justified the Neptune upgrade for a few different reasons:
It comes with laundry, dry cleaning, and pressing. Unlimited.
Additional menu items in the main dining room.
Concierge can arrange a lot of things such as full main dining room menu in room.
Aft-facing suite cabin.
Priority tendering, embarking, and disembarking.
Priority seating in the main dining room (better seats – in an elevated area or by windows).
We actually were feeling a little trepiditious about the main dining room. Holland America has assigned dining times and any time dining times. Honestly, I would prefer assigned dining – you know where you’re going to sit every night and you show up at your assigned time and they seat you. Anytime… can be a crapshoot. Sometimes you wait. Sometimes there’s a kitchen delay. Sometimes you get worse seating. Nonetheless, now we have priority access to avoid a wait.
We’ll see how this goes.
The Antarctic Continent
In general, we’re flying to Santiago, staying a few days, heading south along the Chilean coast and then across to Antarctica, then returning via the Falkland Islands, a stop on the Argentine coast, two in Uruguay, and two days in Buenos Aires. This all begins two weeks from tomorrow.
I’ll blog about the trip of course. I haven’t decided if I want to put it up on Cruise Critic or not. If I do, it will be daily or twice daily, not true live. Maybe I’ll focus on a few things I’ve had to research to help people taking the cruise in the future. Things like:
What to pack
Do HAL cruisers really actually do dressy night?
Weather – day by day report (most reports I’ve seen fizzle out)
Activities on board, especially what “younger” people engage in
