Archives for posts with tag: antarctica-life

So yesterday I had a pretty amazing men’s facial, shave, and haircut, not necessarily in that order. 

The original plan was for us to arrive at Deception Island around 6:30pm.  As it seemed we were running late, I went up to the spa and asked if they could smash my two appointments together and begin at 6pm, and they accommodated.  

It was great.  I pre-booked these appointments over a month ago following on someone’s advice – Antarctic nights tend to be fairly calm and the expedition team and Captain go off duty so it isn’t a horrible time to book services as they are discounted.  My appointment dragged on a while though.  We were done at 8pm so our options for dinner were room service or wait for late night dining to open or take advantage of the Neptune Lounge.  We chose the lounge option as we are now on the “two meals a day” plan anyway.

I still managed to snap a few photos. I barely went outside in the evening, though.

Panorama view.

Others did go outside.

Today’s two meals are Pinnacle Grill breakfast (asian congee) and Pinnacle Grill dinner.  Hopefully the boat doesn’t rock too much.

Anyway, I captured a handful of photos of Deception Island during and after my spa appointment.  I wasn’t going to go outside for long, though, as there was an incredibly strong wind.  Deception Island seems very desolate, and now that we were away from the peninsula where less precipitation falls it didn’t necessarily seem the same.  I think Deception Island is a place where you need an expedition ship to enter the caldera and hopefully get off the ship a bit to see properly.

We spent the night moving from Deception Island to King George Island.  Before we went to bed, we went out on our veranda and realized the waves were coming from behind; this made sense as there was a 30 knot wind from the southwest and we were moving to the northeast.  End result was there were occasional thud noises as waves hit the flat stern of the ship.

Blue in the morning!

More penguins!

Leaving blue waters behind

This morning was our final scenic touring which started in one arm of Admiralty Bay and moved around considerably.  Again, like last night, at 7am conditions on the bow were rather inhospitable, but this didn’t stop me from catching some photos of the blue waters of the bay.

Eventually we moved on from our first stop and caught some sunshine and conditions improved – we spent probably an hour parked at the base of a very large glacier where we were witnessed to a decent sized calving of a glacier followed by a couple hours of slow sailing through the bay past multiple research bases –

the Peruvian,

Uruguayan,

and Brazilian research bases, and then to return.  By noon we were leaving the mouth of the bay and heading to sea.

So how do I rate our Antarctic experience?  Honestly, I do think it was better than expected.  Even though there were three days where half the day had absolutely miserable weather, the rest of the time the weather was fairly decent.  We saw most of our penguin wildlife early in the stay.  We saw a lot more whales than I was expected (perhaps into the hundreds if you were out there for most of it).  We saw fewer seals and sea lions than I expected.  And there were more ships and boats down here than I was expecting.

Conditions on the Drake headed south were reasonable.  On the north remains to be seen but doesn’t look as if it’s going to be apopalyptic.  Internet connectivity has been good, and there have been things to do.

We finally hit our groove as far as getting enough sleep and attaining a healthy groove of dining and fasting and exercise.  I’ve replaced some of my workouts with walking the promenade instead of using the treadmill.  One note – I tried the fitness classes; I don’t really like them here.

Anyway, northward.

From our noon update on Sunday –

60 degrees 50 minutes South, I didn’t catch the West, 16 nautical miles per hour headed south. We are 308 nautical miles from Ushuaia and 235 nautical miles to Palmer Station. No icebergs will be seen until early tomorrow based upon the ice maps and ice forecast.  Currently the temperature is 6 degrees Celsius with a northwest wind at 30 knots. Sunset 10:54pm. Temperature tomorrow morning and through the day will be around freezing with sunrise at 3:52am. We are experiencing 2 1/2 meter swells. Again he warns one hand for the ship, one for your drink. Scenic cruising starts at 6:15am tomorrow.

About this scenic cruising.

So, today I sat through three talks, two by the expedition team and one by the captain.  All were repeated in the afternoon as well.  The first lecture was to a mostly full house; the second was to a full house, and the third we were bursting at the seams.  It seemed as if a lot of people were frustrated when they realized that in order to have a seat at the 11am talk you need to show up at the 9am talk or you have to be patient – and expect maybe you’re going to be turned away to return in the afternoon.

Pro tip – if you stand in the aisles or sit in the aisles or on the stairs they will make you leave and the whole theater will wait until everyone situated as such has left.

The Boss reports that the questions asked in the afternoon were… less well thought out than the questions asked in the morning.

Adrian the geologist mainly spoke about the geology in the glaciers – the patterns and layers that develop as the glaciers and ice moves and flows, because it does flow.

Antarctica is basically covered by a system of ice streams as shown above with darker colors indicating faster flow of ice and lighter colors indicating nearly-still ice.  By faster flow we’re not necessarily talking fast; we’re talking three feet a day, or one and a half Oosterdams per year.

He said he sees these patterns everywhere.

It looks like a coffee

But here is what it looks like on the ice:

This is literally an ice river on Antarctica.

For scale – it’s about ten miles across and it’s taken at an angle, most likely from an aircraft flying into a valley, where you would notice it.

The second talk focused on a bit more depth as Ed is actually a person who studies the ice instead of being ice-adjacent due to time studying geology next to or hidden by the ice.  And Ed is a great speaker as well (so is Adrian).

Antarctica has 24.4 million gigatonnes of ice.  As you can see above, a gigatonne is a billion metric tons.  As you can see below, the size of a gigatonne is roughly a 700 foot tall building sitting on Central Park in New York City.

As always New York City is the city that gets demolished by a megaton of ice

He also spoke a bit about the creation of icebergs and what happens over an ice sheet’s lifetime – the water flowing under the ice, fresh and salt water moving underneath the ice where the ice breaks off, and so forth.  He spoke a bit about the A23a iceberg which is 918 feet tall with only a small portion above ground; A23a also is, or was, the size of Rhode Island and I believe floating somewhere near South Georgia Island now.

But both Adrian and Ed were not the stars of the show. The star was Captain Kevin. In the Antarctic cruise community, at least online on social media and in various forums, Captain Kevin is a hero, in part because he explains in detail what he’s doing but also because he has nervous travelers convinced he has their safety in mind. And he’s funny too.

And here he is
Planned voyage map

On Sunday Kevin gave us the details behind his planning for the first two days of the voyage. The goal was to visit Palmer Station early Monday morning, like 6am, then visit Port Lockroy and drop off postcards to be mailed, and take an afternoon cruise through Lemaire Channel. Eventually we would overnight in Paradise Bay.

For Tuesday we would visit Cuyerville Island, Dallmann Bay, Gerlache Strait, and Wilhelmina Bay.

Much of this didn’t actually happen, but stay tuned. I didn’t take any more photos on Sunday.

Expedition team bios

This is the expedition team.  Tomorrow they’re presenting on “Life in the Deep Freeze.”  As the times line up with a couple of the scenic cruising sites I’m not certain when we will make them. The expedition team is mostly into physical sciences – not so much life – but they’ve done a good job with life sciences and ecology on Antarctica as well. Adrian in particular is highly naturalist-adjacent. I believe he’s married to a PhD biologist.

Anyway.  Sunday night was a decent dressy night interspersed with football playoff games.  This weekend they’ve been playing the playoffs in Billboard whereas last weekend everybody was left to fend for themselves.  There was also a tango dance show tonight, jazz band, and of course the Rolling Stone band.  It is / was a lively night on ship.

Weather continues to be gray and gloomy with temperatures falling more and more, and frankly the forecast is not looking promising for New Zealand.  I believe the December cruise had two beautifully sunny days out of three; they’re telling us not to bank on that right away.  But they’re telling us there are currently reports of lots of penguins in the places suggested so far.  

This is actually one of the things the current expedition team is good for – they have a lot of contacts who are out on the ice and have access to current information in conjunction with the bridge.

At least the ship is relatively steady.  We should sleep well.

Good morning everybody!  We fly tomorrow.  End result – our fridge is empty, teens have gone off to their mother’s for a few weeks, and we’ve packed up.  Our dog is ready to be dropped off at her friend’s house tomorrow morning where they’ll have a great time for the next month.

Yesterday’s pre-travel opportunities included lining up the neighbors to take our trash out later this week and bring the bins back in; coordinating with the plant caretakers; and most importantly polishing my shoes while watching football!

Also, I finished my third “Travel reading” book, Terra Incognita: Travels in Antarctica by Sara Wheeler.  It’s going to Antarctica with me so I can hand it off to my mother while will be on the same cruise.

Terra Incognita

Sara Wheeler breaks Terra Incognita into roughly three different parts.  Her first part is where she flys from New Zealand to McMurdo, the American base on Ross Island by the Ross shelf and spends at least a couple of months at McMurdo as well as flying, sledging, helicoptering, and otherwise traveling out to various research camps elsewhere on the ice including a visit to the West Antarctic Ice Sheet as well as the South Pole research station.  She spends a lot of time talking about the early explorers of Antarctica especially the British (spoiler alert – Sara is British).  She isn’t exactly easy on the British; for instance, she poked fun at their attitude that “of course a Brit would reach the pole first.”  Much of what she discusses about life on the ice especially life at the Pole was shared with me by a friend of mine who spent ten months wintering at the South Pole in 2004 and 2005.

After her stay at McMurdo in the first part of the book, she transfers to the British bases the largest of which is Rothera; her experience there is entirely different.  Although the book is set in the 1990s which seems like the modern era to me, and only ten years before my friend was at the pole, her experiences on South America, especially at Rothera, seem as if they were from another era.  During this time she was much happier at research camps away from the stations rather than at the station itself.  Also, in order to travel to Rothera, on the Antarctic Peninsula, she literally had to fly throughNew Zealand and Los Angeles and then home to London to return via Royal Air Force transport to the Falkland Islands and then a Dash-7 to Rothera…. It certainly was thelong way round.

For her final stay, she felt called to return –  towards the end of the Antarctic winter, and in case anybody is interested in reading it, I won’t spoil it, but it was her happiest time on Antarctica it seems.

One thing she reminds the reader, and this is relevant for Antarctic cruisers – The Antarctic Peninsula is the banana belt.  Especially in the summer it is warmer than Ross Island by 20 degrees and warmer than the South Pole by even more.  Year round the peninsula is close to the temperature of the water around it.  Areas that are surrounded by ice or land are much, much colder.  It’s also the wettest part of the continent.

Travels in a Thin Country

Anyway, if you read this, thanks for reading along.  If you’re interested in the science and experience of being in Antarctica as well as the history, Terra Incognita is a great read.  I also read Travels in a Thin Land where Sara Wheeler speaks of her experiences traveling the length of Chile – top to bottom – for the better part of a year, and I read Endurance by Alfred Lansing about Shackleton’s expedition.  Hopefully if all goes well we will come close to Shackleton’s landing spot on Elephant Island.

A couple of suspicious looking novels

Finally, I have an Antarctic Cruise Guide for understanding the geography around the peninsula as well as the wildlife, and I have a Lonely Planet South America guide forideas on how to spend time in Santiago as well as port days where we don’t haveexcursions planned.  I wouldn’t recommend the Lonely Planet book – it’s too heavy and takes up the weight of a couple of pairs of jeans in your checked baggage!  I’ve included a gratis photo of “Time Management for Mortals” for those who worry about getting everything done before traveling…

Today I wrap things up at the office and tomorrow is the day we travel.  I may have felt comfortable waiting until Wednesday to travel but I figured we would want to get to know Santiago a little before getting on a ship and this gives two whole days for things to go wrong rather than one.

Happy Monday to all who celebrate!